A team of scientists in South Korea has achieved a significant breakthrough, successfully recreating ancient sea silk, a legendary fabric once reserved for royalty and religious figures. This rare material, known for its luminous golden sheen, had largely vanished due to environmental factors.
Reviving a Lost Art with Modern Science
The research, led by Professor Dong Soo Hwang of POSTECH’s Division of Environmental Science and Engineering and Division of Interdisciplinary Bioscience and Bioengineering, along with Professor Jimin Choi of the Environmental Research Institute, utilized the pen shell, Atrina pectinata. This clam, commonly farmed in Korean coastal waters, produces byssus threads structurally similar to those used in original sea silk.
Traditional sea silk was historically made from the byssus threads of Pinna nobilis, a large Mediterranean clam now critically endangered due to marine pollution. The scarcity of Pinna nobilis meant that authentic sea silk production had nearly ceased, making it primarily a historical artifact.
The Secret to Sea Silk's Golden Glow
Beyond recreation, the POSTECH team also uncovered the mystery behind sea silk's enduring golden color. Their findings, published in Advanced Materials, reveal that the fabric’s unique iridescence is not due to dyes but to structural coloration. This phenomenon occurs when light interacts with nanoscale structures within the material.
The researchers identified a spherical protein structure, which they named 'photonin,' as the key component. These proteins form layered arrangements that reflect light in a manner akin to soap bubbles or butterfly wings. Because the color originates from this inherent structure rather than pigment, it remains exceptionally stable and resistant to fading over centuries.
Implications for Sustainable Textiles
This scientific achievement offers exciting possibilities, particularly for sustainable fashion and advanced materials. Previously, the byssus threads from Atrina pectinata were often discarded as waste. Now, this research transforms a byproduct into a valuable textile resource.
“Structurally colored textiles are inherently resistant to fading. Our technology enables long-lasting colour without the use of dyes or metals, opening new possibilities for sustainable fashion and advanced materials,” stated Professor Dong Soo Hwang.
The successful recreation of this ancient material, coupled with the understanding of its unique properties, paves the way for innovative, eco-friendly textile production that could bypass traditional dyeing processes and reduce environmental impact.