Prominent industrialist and RPG Group chairman Harsh Goenka has publicly questioned luxury fashion brand Fendi over its exorbitant ₹8.3 lakh 'Navratri' bag, sparking a debate on cultural appropriation within the high-fashion industry.
Taking to X (formerly Twitter), Goenka drew parallels to the past controversy involving Prada's Kolhapuri chappals, stating, "After the Prada Kolhapuri chappal scandal, here comes the Fendi 'Navratri' bag." He highlighted the stark price difference, noting the Fendi design's resemblance to a ₹500 bag commonly found on the streets of Gujarat, without any acknowledgment or credit to Indian artisans.
Industry Leaders Echo Concerns
Goenka's comments quickly gained traction, with Biocon founder Kiran Mazumdar-Shaw also weighing in on the issue. Mazumdar-Shaw criticized the practice as "cultural appropriation and not in good taste." She emphasized that repackaging India’s traditional crafts as luxury items, particularly without crediting the creators, "undermines our authentic talent and heritage." She concluded that Indian craftsmanship "deserves recognition, not imitation."
The Fendi 'Baguette® 26424' Bag
Fendi describes the controversial item on its official website as the "Baguette® 26424," a "Multicolour Re Edition bag with embroidery and mirrors." The brand states it's part of its Fall/Winter 2026-27 collection, based on an original 1997 design. The luxury brand details the bag's intricate construction: it is entirely hand-embroidered, featuring 39,500 beads and 475 mirrors, requiring over 138 hours of craftsmanship. Made in Italy, its composition includes 100% silk, glass embroidery, calf leather, and Lario linen lining. The bag measures 14 cm in height, 4 cm in depth, and 26 cm in width.
A Pattern of Appropriation?
This incident is not an isolated one for luxury fashion houses. Several high-profile brands have previously faced scrutiny for incorporating traditional Indian craftsmanship without proper attribution or fair compensation. Prada was criticized for sandals resembling traditional Kolhapuri chappals, while Dior drew flak for a high-priced coat featuring Lucknowi mukaish embroidery. Similarly, Ralph Lauren faced criticism for embroidery that mirrored traditional Indian zardozi work, with critics consistently questioning the lack of acknowledgment for the crafts and their skilled artisans.
These repeated instances fuel an ongoing debate about intellectual property, cultural respect, and ethical sourcing within the global fashion industry, urging a reevaluation of how luxury brands engage with traditional crafts from diverse cultures.